Trimming of climbing roses in autumn (rules of implementation)

All rosemakers know that everyone's healthThe bush depends on the proper care of it. Pruning of clinging roses in autumn lays the foundations for the normal growth of the plant and its abundant flowering. The purpose of removing unnecessary and old lashes is the correct formation of the crown, maintaining the health of the bush. Thanks to this procedure, it is possible to achieve a continuous coverage of objects near which are planted climbing roses (gazebos, trellises, fences, arches).

Trimming rules

Pruning of climbing roses in autumn requires specialattention. When it is carried out, it is necessary to take into account the development and growth of vegetative shoots, since abundant flowering in most stunted roses is possible on last year's gains. Autumn pruning of roses is stiff, as, indeed, spring, should be performed only with a sharp pruner so that there will be no squeezing of shoot sections and their cracking. Damaged in this way, shoots become a potential source of infection.

Pruning is carried out obliquely.The cut should be located above the kidney (no more than 5 mm). Thus, sufficient moisture will be provided. Longer "hemp" in winter can die, after which they become a hotbed of infection of the plant. All sections must be treated with a garden crock (so that pathogenic microorganisms do not penetrate into the shoots). The rose is clinging, the pruning of which was not carried out correctly, can even freeze in winter. To prevent this from happening, shoots can not be greatly shortened.

Pruning of climbing roses in autumn is also carried out forremoval of patients and unimproved shoots. The remaining shoots shorten a little. Old bushes are rejuvenated by short pruning. Stems of climbing roses are slightly shortened to healthy tissue, and dead, weak and sick to the ground. Remote shoots are best burned.

When pruning stiff roses it is worth remembering onethe most important rule: the flowers are formed on shoots growing from the middle and top of the shoots of last year. From the lower buds grow branches, which next year will not be buds. That is why when pruning stiff roses you should observe moderation and not cut them too much. In autumn, it is best to restrict shortening of long shoots and removing patients, old and damaged.

Pruning of different groups of roses

Shrubs that bloom on the past shootsyear, are called "rambler". Repeatedly such shoots do not bloom, and their presence only reduces the number of buds. This group of climbing roses needs to be carved up to the very foundation of last year's shoots. They will be replaced by new ones that will blossom next year.

Re-flowering climbing roses (grandiflora,klaymingi, floribundy) form shoots up to 5 m long, on which appear lateral shoots with buds. They will bloom for 3-4 years. By the fifth year of their life, the number of flowers is greatly reduced. The main whips of such climbing roses are cut only after 4 years of flowering. Varieties of these roses should have 3-6 main shoots and 2-3 annuals. Pruning of climbing roses in autumn can be replaced by spring shortening of stems.