What is the French wine "Chablis"?It is dry to note that it is made from Chardonnay grapes - it's like not saying anything. The definition of "Burgundy" also brings little clarity to the description of this wonderful drink. Let's try to get to the bottom of this wine with character. If we say: “White, dry,” then we will humiliate “Chablis”. It is more noble, elegant and rich in hues than wines, which are used in France to make sauces. So what is “Chablis” and how does it differ from “Chardonnay” (which actually consists of)? Let's try to figure it out. And also to understand which “Chablis” wines are valued more, and which ones - less.
Having advanced the borders of their empire to the north, the ancientsthe Romans brought on the land of the Franks and the culture of wine production. They began to plant the vines wherever possible, and the rather cool climate with frequent vagaries of weather did not stop them. Burgundy was one of the regions that the Romans declared suitable for growing grapes. The city of Chablis has not yet emerged on the map, and already on the surrounding hills they harvested amber-green berries. It took another thousand years, and the French bred by breeding the Chardonnay grape variety. And in the XII century, the monks of the Cistercian abbey of Pontigny recognized that white wine reveals its bouquet better, shows elegance and subtlety, if the harvest is from vines growing on the slopes near the town of Chablis. "Bonua" - so dubbed the local drink - was so valued in the Middle Ages, that it was delivered to the royal court. In the end, the white wine "Chablis" has become associated with all alcoholic beverages from Burgundy.
Take a look at the map of this vast province.We see an edge that has long been famous for its wines. Saying "Burgundian", many French people mean red from Bon, a bit sweet and tart Grenage. But in the very north of the region there is a region of Yonne. Its soils are unique. Millions of years ago, a warm sea splashed here. The chalky deposits that remain in the soils convey a wonderful mineral note to the wine. However, the soil here is acidic, which also affects the taste of the berries. The climate in Yonne is pretty cool for viticulture. To harvest the sun, you need to "catch", protecting the vines from the cold northern winds. This opportunity is provided by low, but still hills in the vicinity of the town of Chablis. Vineyards cover the southern slopes above the banks of the river Seren. Every autumn the streets of the small town are flooded with visitors who want to try and buy a drink from the new harvest. But how to choose the right bottle and not lose?
The lands around the famous town are divided intofour opellons. And although they all produce white dry wine "Chablis" exclusively from Chardonnay, the origin of this or that hill is of great importance. The lowest in the hierarchy is Petit Chablis. Vines of this category grow on the outskirts of the region, on the plain. Wine "Petit Chablis" fully justifies its name ("Petit" in French - small). This is a young, almost playing drink. He wonderfully quenches thirst, is considered summer. It is customary to serve it in a jug (although it is often put on the table and in a bottle). Slightly higher in the hierarchy is simply "Chablis." It is more interesting than Petit, with pronounced sourness. It is kept for 1-3 years, but nothing bad will happen to the drink if the bottle is uncorked after ten years. Apellasion Premier Cru is located on the banks of the Cerens and in turn is subdivided into climate: Mont de Mille, Monte de Tonner, Fourchem, Water Way, Borua, Monmene, Veyon and others. But the top of the hierarchy of wine "Chablis" crowned Grand Cru. Small plots on the right bank of the Seren, miraculously saved in the 19th century from an invasion by phylloxera, give berries for this variety. And now let's talk about all these categories in more detail.
Не спешите морщить презрительно нос, если вам will offer Petit Chablis. In the soil where the vines grow in this category, there is no marl, but there is limestone, and therefore the mineral taste is guaranteed. Wine "Petit Chablis" drink young. It has a green tint, the scent of freshly mown hay, pronounced acidity. It is called the "summer drink" because it quenches thirst well. This wine can be served as an aperitif. But experts say that the most successful tende is young Chablis with oysters or with Escargo snails. You can serve it with soft cheeses - brie and camembert. Petit Chablis has one interesting nuance: Vieilles Vignes. The two words on the label mean that the wine was made from the harvest of old, 25-year-old vines. Kislinka in such a wine is smoother, and the taste is softer.
White wine "Chablis", in contrast to many lightburgundy based on chardonnay, not aged in oak barrels. It is believed that contact with such characteristic wood harms the delicate mineral taste of the drink. Therefore, it is kept in stainless steel vats. Dry, but not sharp, it is perfect for seafood and snails. It looks good and accompanied by meat snacks. After five years of aging, dry white wine “Chablis” opens its bouquet, and its green eye starts to wink. The drink loses its aggressiveness, the taste of a sour apple and citrus fruit is reborn into honey notes with a chalky shade.
Wine "Chablis Premier Cru" produce justthirty plots. The value of this orange is in a more complex and persistent bouquet, in which acacia honey acts as a dominant note. Shades of fruit and an almost imperceptible note of iodine (hello from the sea that has disappeared long ago) complement the flavor picture. Many sommeliers argue which climate is better. Many agree that this is Côte de Lesches, Buttes, Foret and Monte de Tonner. This wine "Chablis" reviews recommend drinking no earlier than a five-year aging period. Then notes of hazelnut are clearly appearing in the drink. This wine does not serve as an aperitif - too expensive. It accompanies the main dishes of white meat, poultry, fish. Sometimes you can afford to serve it to meat snacks, but very refined, for example, to foie gras.
Vineyards in this category are smallsquare (only three percent of all land glorious town). They are all on the right bank of the Cerenes, on the southwestern slope of the hills. Microclimate there is most conducive to winemaking. The drink is very expensive, since the harvest of berries is small (compared to other oranges), and the production process is long. The lands are divided into climates: Vozdier, Valmuir, Prez, Grenouille, Clo, Bouguereau and Blanchaux. But no matter what "Chablis" wines of the Grand Cru category you purchased, it will always be a great choice. Terroir makes them special, because in the ground there is a lot of clay-stony collyuvium, which makes drinks decisive. This wine, many manufacturers can withstand 8-15 years, and sometimes - in oak barrels. Their taste is perfect. Soft, harmonious, rounded, with a long train. The dominant note in the rich and unforgettable bouquet appears ... the smell of gun flint. The best is the climate of Clos. The wine from there has the aroma of the most genuine cannon powder.
People who know French wines knowthat in this country there is a strict "control of the name of origin" (AOC). This allows you to gain confidence that the bottle of "Chablis", purchased by you, was filled with a drink produced in the distilleries of the town of the same name. And, although the Chardonnay variety is grown in many places, and the production technology can be copied, yet, the acidity of the soil, marl and limestone, located in the depths, and the climate can not be borrowed. However, enterprising Americans produce their wine "Chablis". France is indignant, because in the mild California climate Chardonnay produces a sweeter berry. And therefore the wine is very different from the original. In the north of Burgundy, the vine enters into combat with cold winds, rainy summer and early frosts, but the drink comes out with bold sourness. But in America, the Californian "Chablis" came to court, and even went into great literature. For example, this wine is mentioned in John Upike's “The Witches of Eastwick”.
Whichever appellation a drink fromnorthern Burgundy, it needs to savor chilled. "Petit Chablis" drink young. It makes no sense to keep it for a long time, because with age the wine gets the smell of wool. But more titled "Chablis" is worth holding. Chablis reveals his best qualities in the fourth year. Premier Cru gives caramel and honey notes after aging at three to eight years. “Grand Cru” reaches its zenith only in ten. When buying wine from the manufacturer, keep in mind that the most successful drinks are obtained after a hot summer. This is 1990, 1992, 1996-2000.
