There are manual and machine types of stitches in sewing.The first is most often used for sweeping the cut parts and for finishing the rough edges of the fabric. To do this, two pieces of fabric are folded and sewed from left to right across the edge. The stitches are then made small, and the material is grasped by the needle almost at the edge. At the same time, the seam should not shrink the tissue, otherwise it can form a scar when ironing.
Types of hand welds:
- Suture forward the needle. This is the simplest kind.The needle is driven forward and through the equal intervals of 2-3 mm pierces the tissue. Stitches when sweeping parts are made from 7 to 10 mm in length. Most often, these seams are used to identify the finishings, collect the fabric in the assembly, temporarily connect the parts and designate the middle.
- Seam for the needle.The needle is removed to the front side with the back, and then, having receded 2-3 mm back, pierce the tissue. On the wrong side, a stitch is made, which is 2 times longer than the upper, that is, from 4 to 6 mm, and the needle is withdrawn again to the front. Such a seam is used to temporarily tighten the pieces of cut.
- Edge seam.Combine sections of the details, and then over the edge, with a silk thin thread, make small stitches, grasping two or three threads of the edge. Lay the connected parts on both sides, then iron. It is usually applied when there is not enough of a small piece on the cut-out part from the side of the edge.
- Copying stitches. Without tightening the thread, offset stitches from 7 to 10 mm in length, are laid along the contours of the parts. Then they separate and cut the thread of the seam with scissors.
- Hidden stitches.The edge of the allowance for the filing is bent, and then it is marked at a distance from the edge of 1-2 mm. When laying the seam, it is necessary to hold the needle and thread inside the hem - a stitch with a length of 3 to 5 mm should be obtained. With the needle out, you need to grab 1 or 2 threads of tissue, and then re-thread the needle inside the fold. The offset thread must not be visible after the end, either from the wrong side or from the front.
- Выворотный шов.Sew the material with a seam by the needle at a distance of 2mm from the edge. After turning inside out, the edge is trimmed, and, folding the seam with an accordion, carefully fill it and reapply. Before scribing, it is necessary to lay a marking at a distance of 3 mm at the first seam and 5 mm at the second. Such a seam is used for sewing of chintz, cambric, satin and other similar fabrics.
- Stitching seam.The pieces of fabric are folded inward with the front side in such a way that one of them protrudes by 5 mm, stitches, the seam is aligned and the protruding edge is turned by 3 mm, swept, then labeled and spread out.
Machine types of seams:
- Relief seams. They are subdivided into line with cord and without cord, zastlichnye, vytaknye and tuning.
Shriveled joints are made on 2 and 4needle machines, under the bottom laying for the bulge a strip of soft drape or batting. Preliminary outline the position of the first line. To make the seam look more prominent, a thin lining is placed down, and then a cord is stretched between the layer of fabric and the lines. To get a seam without a cord, make a ledge on the needle plate and to bend the material - the groove in the sole of the foot.
Zastrichnye are performed by stitching on the front (it can be on the wrong side) of the part, bent over the notches. From the line to the inflection, the distance is from one and a half to two millimeters.
Vytaknye mark with one line on the purlside. Then the detail is bent along the intended line with the front side inwards, laying a strip of fabric, is stuck in a half to two millimeters from the inflection line. After the seam, either iron or iron.
Stitching types of stitches are performed with a strip of fabric andwithout. The seam line is marked on the front side. Then a strip of fabric is put from the inside and a connecting line is made on it. The part of the face is bent inwards and is stuck at a distance of one and a half to two centimeters from the line. Bend the strip of fabric and put it on the other side of the line. Bend the part to the strip and staple;
- seams with edging. These types of joints are divided into connecting and boundary;
- folds. They are divided into connecting, finishing, two-sided, one-sided, static, soft, zastlichnye and tuning.
