How to prune grapes in spring correctly. Scheme pruning grapes in spring

Almost all owners of country houses orcottages necessarily allocate part of their backyard territory for growing grapes. With the help of this wonderful plant you can not only create a cozy shady corner in your yard, but also get a solid harvest of tasty and healthy fruits. Experienced gardeners know that the key to successful cultivation of grapes of any varieties is its proper pruning and subsequent care. We will talk today about how to cut grapes in spring.

Spring pruning: indications

The grapes are pruned in late autumn or earlyin the spring. In regions with very cold winters, this procedure is carried out in the spring, before the start of sap flow and kidney swelling. In places where winters do not differ in special severity, pruning of grapes is done in late autumn, 3 weeks after the leaves fall completely. The first cut the most frost-resistant varieties. In young plants and in varieties with poor resistance to cold, unnecessary shoots are removed only in spring.

For autumn pruning, leave somethe number of "spare" kidneys in case of freezing of some of them in the winter. If all the kidneys safely "survive" the cold, the excess should be removed in late spring.

Spring grape pruning for beginnerswinegrowers may seem rather tricky procedure, and there is some truth in this. First of all, it should be remembered that this process should be carried out on time, without delay. For example, you can not do pruning after the appearance of the eyes on the plant, except in cases when they were damaged by frost in the winter. If the grapes are pruned after the eyes are formed on it, then there is a risk of losing them because they are still loose on the vine. In addition, delayed pruning causes the plant to additionally consume its precious nutrients. But if you didn’t know when and how to cut the grapes in spring correctly, which is why you were late with this procedure, and the eyes were already formed, then don’t touch the plant until the first pair of leaves appears on its green shoots.

Spring care of grapes: pruning is the key to a rich harvest

Properly performed grape pruning procedure guarantees excellent results:

• The size of the grape brush increases, the berries fill up more fully, acquiring a richer taste.
• Ripening grapes is much faster.
• The cut plant has a much greater resistance to various diseases, pests and frost, and the fruits do not deteriorate during ripening.

In addition, pruning grapes in spring forNovice gardeners will be of interest also in terms of the design of the backyard territory, since the crown of a plant can be given a certain shape. In addition, during its formation, it is possible to focus on the convenience of harvesting the future crop, so that later you don’t have to reach for the fruits from the stepladder, nearby trees or other heights.

Necessary and superfluous: what is what?

So, the main rule thatpruning of grapes is made in spring, for beginners it sounds like this: you just need to cut off all unnecessary, but nothing more. But first of all, it is necessary to understand what is superfluous and what is necessary. First, it should be learned that next season the harvest will come from the buds located on the young vine that has grown this season.

«Нужная», молодая и тонкая лоза имеет light brown color. But the bush consists of a thicker and older vine, without which it can not do without, although it will not give the harvest anymore. Then the question arises: why is it needed, this perennial wood? But everything is simple - it is a kind of storage of nutrients that are especially needed in the spring when the grapes begin to grow. After all, while young shoots do not acquire enough leaves, they do not give absolutely nothing to a bush. The young growth is only a consumer of food for its growth, that is, the most real “parasite”, feeding on perennial wood. However, the number of new shoots should be controlled, and for this the obligatory pruning of young grapes is carried out. But remember, if all youngsters are “cut to zero”, then the harvest can be expected not earlier than in a year.

Pruning grapes in spring: scheme

So, we found out that a young vine is for harvest,and perennial - for sustenance, but in order to find the “middle ground” when pruning, each plant should be assessed individually. Initially, it is necessary to determine the optimal location of growth on the vine. To do this, it is recommended to choose a specific plant shape and maintain it in the future. There are various forms of vines, but their actual use is real only in warm regions, where there is no need to cover the plants for the winter. Therefore, in most cases, the configuration of the bush is formed taking into account the convenience of its shelter from frost.

We can distinguish a couple of the main forms of vines:

• multi-arm fan - when at the base of a bush 1-2 rejuvenation links are created;
• Cupped is also a multi-sleeve form, but with a cordon.

A specific grape pruning scheme will helpgive the bushes the desired shape. Beginners-growers are encouraged to cut the grapes according to the Guyot system. Its meaning is that it is necessary to leave one fruit-bearing rod for ten buds, as well as one replacement rod for three buds or to keep a pair of such fruit links on a bush.

Basic rules for pruning grapes

It is very important to properly cut the grapes to reduce the harmful effects of wounds. This process boils down to several important points:

• all cuts must be made on one side of the sleeve, since such an arrangement of wounds will not prevent the flow of water and beneficial trace elements to the rest of the bush;
• the fatter the young shoot, the more it should be cut;
• last year's otplodonosivshaya vine must be removed;
• unnecessarily long sleeves are pruned so that the strongest developed shoot remains on the fruiting vine;
• if no shoots were formed on the replacement knot, the fruit link is formed from the lower shoots;
• the wide part of the pruning blade should be directed to the part of the vine that remains, and the narrow to the part to be removed.

The very first, so to speak debut, trimmingGrape spring for beginners will be a kind of test that will show whether they have the ability in the future to become a real winegrower. Beginners need to give another tip: for cutting should be used sharp and durable pruner, which will allow you to cut off the shoots in one confident movement. Then the remaining part of the vine will not exfoliate, and the plant will be able to transfer the necessary “surgical intervention” less painfully.

Fruit Link - what is it?

The fruit link is a swallow of replacement and fruitarrow, which are annual shoots located on a two-year horn. Usually, on a bitch, replacements leave from 2 to 4 eyes, and the fruit arrow is left much longer - with 5-12 eyes or even more.

Shoots and knots of substitution

Pruning of shoots must be done so that they, contrary topolarity, it was the lower eyes that developed, and then good shoots. As for the replacement knots, they help not to move away from the center of the grape bush, since, based on polarity, the best shoots are the best. If you leave them alone, this will contribute to a significant lengthening of the sleeve. When pruning, remove the fruit arrow with all the shoots on it. From the shoots formed from the replacement knot, “looking” downwards, another replacement knot is made, and from the upper shoot they make a fruit arrow. Cut-off areas must be treated with garden pitch.

Grape bush sleeves

Sleeves are perennial branches through whichNutrients (ascending current) are delivered to the entire plant from its roots. In addition, the sleeves and descending current to the roots - organic substances produced by the leaves.

The lifespan of the sleeves varies from 4up to 6 years, and then the level of growth begins to decline. Some sleeves may initially not be sufficiently developed and barely produce a crop, so they should be removed so that the bush does not waste its resources.

Care of grapes

Чтобы гроздья выросли крупными, в период цветения remove excess buds, leaving 1-2 for the entire branch. To provide inflorescences sufficient solar lighting is necessary, pinching off the leaves that shade them. So that all the useful substances do not go away only in young shoots, after selecting flowering branches, it is recommended to cut them at the height of the fourth leaf after the last inflorescence.

After all these procedures, the vine mustlook well sparse, with free, not interfering with each other branches. With an interval of every 14 days until mid-July, it is necessary to remove young weak shoots to avoid overgrowth of the bush and prevent shading of future clusters.

Of course, experience is a great thing, but if there is a desire to engage in viticulture, even beginning gardeners will be rewarded for their efforts with a rich and tasty harvest.